Project Components
Below is a list of the parts I used and where I got them. You'll probably have to do some checking for your motorcycle.
Input/Output controller: This is optional. You can chose to keep all of the existing wiring on the bike stock. I chose to completely re-wire the wiring harness. I tied all the inputs such as the switches/buttons for the headlights, turn signals, brakes, horn, key iignition, and all the outputs like the headlights, turn signals, horn, etc into a controller unit from Motogadget called the M.unit. This is basically the brains of the bike now. More on the m.unit later.
Frame: I ended up getting a 1987 Yamaha FZR1000 from my friend Jeff. It was cheap $500 and not running, so it seemed like a good choice for me. This is a big bike, so if you're not a tall or big guy like, I'd recommend something a bit smaller.
Motor: Based on the size of the bike and the fact that I wanted to go faster than the average e-bike, I decided on a 72V dc motor from Advanced Motors. It's the model A00-4009. I ordered it online from thunderstruck-ev.com.
Batteries: I eventually settled on the Nissan Leaf Gen2 battery cells. I got them used off Ebay. These provide 8.4 volts DC each, YMMV. I have mine configured as 2 - 48V packs, wired in series.
(Motor) Controller: The voltage of the controller should match that of the motor. Also, the higher the amps equals more power. I chose the Alltrax 7245 because I saw a lot of others using this model for their builds. It can handle up to 450 Amps. No need to re-invent the wheel here.
Electric Throttle: Don't waste your time trying to build a potimeter on an old throttle--just buy a pre-made one and be done with it. I got the Magura 0-5K Twist grip throttle from cloudelectric.com
Charger(s): Since I have 2 battery packs, I decided to charge them with seperate chargers. This reduce the charge time almost by half. I chose 2 of the Mean Well HLG-320H-48A 48V. I got them off amazon.
DC/DC Converter: Since you probably won't be running an alternator for the 12 volt system for lights, horns, accessories, etc, you'll probably need to convert the volatge from the batteries down to 12-13 volts using a DC to DC converter. I'm actually using 2 of them. 1 72v to 12v converter and 1 12v to 5v converter. The 12v converter will handle the voltage for the headlights, taillights, brake-lights, turn signals, digital speedometer, the m.unit, USB charger, etc. The 5V converter handles the device used to for handshaking with smart chargers. More on that later.
Fuses: You'll want to get a fuse that matches your setup. I bought model ANN 400 w/ holder from EVAMERICA.
Contactor: This is a relay device that uses your existing key ignition on 12Volts and it will close the 72V loop to your controller and motor. I bought an Albright SW-200 from EVAMERICA. I'm thinking of using a 4 pole contactor for the outputs of the the Mean Well chargers.
Battery cable and connectors- I bought about 10 feet of 2 GA wire from Menard's and cut it to length. Using flat-end connectors, I soldered and used heat shrink tubing on each end. I highly recommend battery terminal covers for safety. I also 3D printed battery connector covers for each battery.
Instruments I chose a generic digital speedometer. This has the display for the current speed as well as indicators for left and right turn signals and headlights - hi/lo beams. As an added feature, I wired up the keyswitch to the neutral indicator to show me when the bike was "on".
Other parts
Wire - 12GA different colors and heat shrink tubing (large and small sizes)
Electrical tape
Wire connectors
Wire wrap
Tools
Basic shop tools are required such as a drill, socket set, screw drivers,wire stripper, etc. Additionally a volt meter, metal grinder and crimper are used in this project.
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